Just a small portion of the colossal Palace of the Parliament in Bucharest
My first memory of hearing about Romania was during the 1976 Olympics when Nadia Comaneci became the first person ever to score perfect 10s on her gymnastic events. At the time I had some vague idea that Romania was an oppressed country but really not much more.
Later I became aware that Romania is where Transylvania is located. I loved me some Dracula movies when I was a kid!
We recently spent five days in Bucharest, Romania and loved it! It is a city still recovering from its time behind the Iron Curtain, but what a fun place to visit! It seems like this is what Berlin or Budapest must have felt like 10 or 20 years ago. We recommend you see it soon before it is completely over run with tourists!
Remnants of the Communist Era
A statue of Iuliu Maniu in front of the former Romanian Communist Party Headquarters
The communist era in Romania was dominated by one man, Nicolae Ceausescu. He led the country for almost 25 years beginning in 1965. While he somehow managed to rule outside of the Soviet umbrella, his mismanagement of state-run industries and social policies caused the eventual collapse of his empire. During his presidency the citizens suffered under horrid economic conditions and a militant police state, while Ceausescu lived in luxury and built the colossal Palace of the Parliament.
During uprisings in 1989, Ceausescu ordered troops to fire on anti-government protesters. This caused even more angry mobs to flood the capital’s streets and the military finally defected and joined the protestors. Ceausescu and his wife escaped Bucharest in a helicopter but were soon caught, tried, and executed within days. Romania was finally free of its communist ruler, but it has taken years to recover and is still rebuilding.
Inside a building at the Dimitrie Gusti National Village Museum
We ended up in Bucharest at the end of our Viking River Cruise, Passage of Eastern Europe. Here are some of the highlights of our time in Bucharest, the capital of Romania.
We took a bus from our ship, the Viking Idun, into Bucharest. Our first stop was the "Dimitrie Gusti" National Village Museum. This is a kind of open-air folk museum featuring historic homes from different regions all over Romania. These are not the kind of spots we are typically attracted to, but I must say it was very interesting! I highly recommend it! Of particular interest were the paintings inside the orthodox churches and carvings on the houses.
Our grand entrance at the Palace of the Parliament
From there we moved on to the Palace of the Parliament. This is the second largest building in the world, second only to the Pentagon. The tours can only give a small glimpse into this opulent space, which was never fully completed. It is an awe-inspiring edifice, especially as one considers the horrible conditions the citizens were living in as it was being built. The building also houses a museum and event spaces as well as the rooms where the government functions. This is a must see when you visit Bucharest.
Where to Stay in Bucharest
Our accommodation the first night was part of the Viking Cruise and was at the Radisson Blu. This is not the typical kind of hotel we look for but I must say it was nice, very well located, and a bargain when you compare it to similar hotels in other European capitols.
The rest of our time we stayed in an apartment called Amando Bucharest and it was perfect for us. For about $42 a night we got a nice bedroom, a kitchenette, and a small dining area in the courtyard of a building in a super location. Our host met us when we arrived and gave us recommendations for some local restaurants and things to see. We enjoy spots like this so much more than a sterile hotel. They are not always as comfortable as you might find at a big chain hotel but it feels more authentic.
Our room at Amando Bucharest
Getting Acquainted with Bucharest
As we often do when we’re visiting a city for the first time, we took a walking tour to get to know the city a little better. The Walkabout Free Walking Tours, Story of Bucharest took about three hours and our local guide talked to us about the history of Romania and Bucharest, life during the communist era, and other sights to visit in the city. It was very informative and a great introduction to the city. We started in the Unirii Square and worked our way through the Old Town and ended in University Square, close to our apartment.
The next day we set out on a long walk to the Piata Obor, Bucharest’s largest market, but not before we got a little side-tracked.
Bucharest Markets
The fried trout was amazing!
The Obor Market was a bit of a hike from our place. We talked about taking an Uber or public transportation but decided to make the 2 ¼ mile trek by foot. A little ways into the walk we stumbled upon a small market in the parking area of some official looking building. We almost didn’t stop because we were on our way to Obor, but we couldn’t resist. We got to taste some local honey, tried some traditional desserts filled with Nutella and pistachio, and admire Romanian crafts and handiwork. We checked out the food stalls and were tempted by a grilled whole trout. It was served with a small portion of polenta and a white garlic sauce. Absolutely delicious!
Moving on to Obor we passed many streets lined with what our guide from Walkabout called “Commie Condos,” big blocks of nondescript apartment buildings very similar to other communist era buildings we have seen in Berlin, Budapest, Prague, and Poland. It was very interesting to see, but not very pretty.
The Obor market is a sprawling complex of buildings and stalls that cover several blocks. At the heart is a large covered building with all the fresh produce. The ground floor is full of fruits and vegetables. One floor up you can find meats, eggs, cheeses, sausages, and more. On the top floor is a home improvement store of sorts with plastic chairs and tables, mirrors and all matter of décor. To us, the style seemed to be several decades out of date.
The surrounding buildings and stalls are full of clothes, flowers, tools, etc. like we have seen in many European weekly markets, but on a much larger and permanent scale.
Leaving the food hall we saw smoke coming out of a tented area and then picked up on the wonderful aromas coming from that direction. We went to investigate and found a group of people lined up for mici, a Romanian specialty. We had been wanting to try these grilled sausage snacks and this seemed like a good place, so I got in line while Betsy snagged a table. They were amazing and went down well with the beers I picked up. Almost anytime you see a line like we did here you are in for a treat. We looked it up later and it turns out Terasa Obor is hands down the best mici in town! I’m not going to argue!
A Great Concert Venue in Bucharest
The stage at the Romanian Athenaeum
That evening we went to hear the George Enescu Philharmonic at the Romanian Athenaeum. This wonderful concert hall is a beautiful round, domed building opened in 1888. It is gorgeous inside with painted walls and ceilings and gilded decorations everywhere. The concert schedule here is quite full and varied so make plans to hear a concert here.
We went to buy tickets but the performance we wanted to hear was sold out. We were told if we came back at 6:00 on the night of the show we could probably get tickets. We showed up early but were told we had to wait until 6:00. So we waited with others who were there for the same thing. At exactly 6:00 she started selling what tickets she had. There were plenty for all of us. She hand wrote the tickets on a slip. It worked and we enjoyed a great evening of music.
George Enescu is Romania’s most well known musician and the orchestra dedicated to his memory calls the Athenaeum home. The concert consisted of works by Musorgski, Rahmaninov and Dvorak and was a great evening.
Walking Bucharest
We love walking and exploring and Bucharest is great for that. There are three passages – Pasajul Englez, Pasajul Victoria, and Pasajul Vilacrosse – Macca – that are fun to stroll through and close to one another. The English Passage is rather run down but has some neat shops including a hat maker that has been there for decades. Victoria’s Passage is covered with umbrellas and houses a pizza place and bar called Pizza Colosseum that is open late and a fun place to relax. The most elaborate is the French themed Vilacrosse and Macca which are actually two covered lanes that converge into a Y formation. Most of these passages are lined with shisha bars frequented by young adults relaxing and sharing the water pipes.
Exploring Old Town
Near these passages is the area known as Old Town, a collection of streets that have been mostly renovated (but not all of them) full of bars, restaurants, and shops. Parts of this area feel very touristy with rows of restaurants spilling out into the streets and bars catering to young travelers looking for a party. But explore the side streets and you’ll find beautiful orthodox churches, museums, galleries, and bookshops.
We had several favorite spots as we explored the Old Town. One is Carturesti Carusel, a four-story bookshop with wonderful architecture and an open atrium. The art galleries and antique shops that line the small street Strada Hanul cu Tei are really fun to explore. The Stavropoleos Church is almost three centuries old and covered in paintings inside and out. The Saint Nicolas Russian Church has distinctive onion domes and is also lavishly decorated. It’s so much fun to wander a city and just see what you discover.
We also enjoyed finding the streets that have not yet been renovated. You get a real feel for what this area was like before the fall of communism and the city began to revitalize itself.
Unexpected Gem in the Evening
On Saturday evening we walked past Old Town to Piata Unirii to see the dancing fountains. Our walking tour guide told us about it and others said it was worth seeing. I really wasn’t expecting much but we had a blast! Unirii Square is a huge complex of fountains that Ceausescu had built to show off his wealth. A large section of housing was demolished to build the square and the main road leads to the Palace of the Parliament. It has now become a central meeting point and a place for everyone to enjoy.
Unirii Square dancing waters - pictures do not really do it justice
Families, couples, and groups of friends flock to this square every weekend to enjoy the spectacle. The whole area is equipped with an amazing sound system and the fountains, with elaborate lighting, are programmed to the music. It started with classical and moved to more popular music in the second half. The program lasted at least 45 minutes and never got boring. We found a spot in the middle and were completely surrounded by lights and water. It was really fun to watch the children!
Where to Eat and Drink in Bucharest
You know we’re going to talk about food and drink! Here are some of our favorite spots.
Street Food in Bucharest
There are mici stands all over Bucharest but by far our favorite was Terasa Obor mentioned above. Our only mistake was not ordering more. It is a bit of a trek to get there but worth the effort!
Mici and fries
Another amazing “snack” we had was at Scovergaria Micai. This was a little stand close to our apartment. We saw lines here often but mistakenly thought it was another bakery with mostly sweets. What we discovered was Micai, Romania’s version of fried bread with fillings. We had one with ham and cheese and our favorite with salty cheese, garlic sauce, and sour cream. My mouth is watering as I write this. Had we discovered it earlier we would have gone back multiple times!
Where to Eat in Bucharest
One of our favorite spots, Paine si vin
Our first night in town we ate at a nearby place called Pâine si Vin (Bread and wine). This hip little place has a farm to table groove and features local charcuterie and cheeses. They also do flatbread pizzas in a wood fired oven that are delicious. On the wine side they highlight Romanian wines and have a nice list of white, rose, and red wines and knowledgeable staff to help you decide which of the native grapes to try. We did visit here a couple times.
Their sister restaurant right next door is called Energia. The menu was an eclectic mix of salads, vegetarian dishes, smoothies, steaks, and burgers served with enormous piles of fries.
In Old Town there is a spot on the crowded streets called Lacrimi si Sfinti that was recommended by our walking tour guide. They serve traditional Hungarian fare with a modern twist. We had a number of smaller dishes – caramelized peas, cooked cabbage, sauerkraut, meatballs, folded cheese in grape leaves and fries. With a couple of beers and a table outside to people watch, it was a good lunch in Old Town.
Also in Old Town is the very popular Caru’ cu Bere a large, old-time beer hall that draws lots of tourists and locals alike. Our host at Amando Bucharest told us about the working class lunches available Monday – Friday from noon to 6:00. Five courses for about $6.50! We found it on the menu but it was not translated like the rest of the menu.
We asked our rather unfriendly waitress for help but she gave little other than to say it was a lot of food. Most of the tourists were eating the pig knuckle, which they are famous for but we went for the lunch special. We each picked different selections for each coarse and ended up with coleslaw/cooked cabbage; Greek salad/polenta with cheese and egg; French fries and mici/pork and potatoes; and biscuit cake (chocolate)/apple cake. Way more than we could finish but it was fun! Even if you do not eat here, at least pop in when it is not too busy and see the beautifully decorated inside.
Where to Drink in Bucharest
Our first night at Paine si vin
Romania makes some very good wine that is rarely seen back home and we are always anxious to try some new grapes! Our first exposure was at Pâine si Vin. They introduced us to negru de dragasani and feteasca neagra, two indigenous grapes that produce high quality reds. It was a good first night!
Wine bars are popular and so we were really happy with our choices in the evenings! At Vino – Wine and More we a had bottle of feteasca neagra by Guy de Poix, a winery established by a French wine maker who moved to Romania and became intrigued with the local grapes. This was a fabulous bottle of wine. The restaurant also does nice charcuterie platters and light meals.
We spent an afternoon on the patio at Linea, a sky bar with lovely views of the city below. We had Campari Spritzes and chips and just enjoyed the breeze and people watching. I’m sure it turns into more of a party atmosphere in the evenings but we really enjoyed relaxing there in the afternoon.
Fabrica de Bere Buna
A few more we unfortunately didn’t discover until our last night or we would have spent more time there. I was somewhat disappointed with the beer I had around town but on our last night we remedied that. Fabrica de Bere Buna is a true craft beer pub. We did a taster of four and then picked a couple more. A great spot I wish we had found earlier.
From there we walked down the street to a place called Gradina Eden. Hidden behind an unmarked residential building is a sprawling complex of bars, seating areas, tiki lights, and dance rooms. We were there on a Monday and it felt nearly deserted but I imagine on the weekends it must be a blast!
Finally, we stopped in at the Green Hours Jazz Café. I had been scoping this place out as a spot to catch some live music but our schedules never lined up. It had nice garden seating outside. The stage is inside where the walls are covered in with pictures of classic jazz artists. I’m sure this would be a great venue to catch some live music.
We also didn’t see Bran Castle (Dracula’s Castle), Peles Castle or the village of Brasov, all popular day trips from Bucharest. Some of the many reasons to return to Bucharest, Romania!
Romanian Athenaeum
Would you like to plan a trip to Bucharest or another European destination? We can help with that! Remember that we are always available to you and your friends and family for custom trip planning to Italy, France, Ireland, the UK and all of Europe. We are experts in creating custom travel itineraries and leading small group trips to European destinations. Feel free to reach out via email — We’re always available to talk about travel!
Greg Ball – Greg is co-founder and partner of Euro Travel Coach (ETC), which crafts custom European vacations for independent travelers and leads small group tours to Europe. In his previous life he taught Woodwinds and Jazz at the university level for 30 years. As a professor he took his bands to England, Ireland, Czech Republic, Austria, Switzerland, and England. Since “retiring” he and his wife/ETC co-founder Betsy travel Europe nine months out of the year. Together they have visited over 40 countries and counting! He loves cooking, hiking, listening and playing music, and wine and holds a Level 3 certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust.
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